The New CabThe edges of the "doorways" into the cab are reinforced by what is known as "Half-round Feather Edging" which is riveted to the side platework. Because the edges are curved in places, the feather edging has to be bent to the same shape as the platework. To do this a jig was made from a 10mm flat metal plate and circular discs which had been turned to the radii of the curves on the cab sides. The discs were held in place by 10mm bolts and other 10mm bolts were used to hold the feather edging in place and guide the bending process.
By carefully heating the feather edge to orange heat using an oxy-propane torch, the feather edging was bent to the required profile. Care has to be taken in heating the metal. Too much heat and the edging will kink to a radius that is too small. Too little heat and the edging will not follow the circular arc. The heating and bending has to be done carefully and slowly. Some hammering is required to keep the edging flat.
|Feather Edge - Making the second bend
|All 8 shaped Feather Edge strips
|Feather Edge being fixed to the cab side
To date, the lower right-hand side of the cab has been assembled using angle iron to join to the front and rear cab platework. At the moment this has been done entirely using specially made stainless steel domed Whitworth screws to match those used on the original. On the original cab the angles were fixed using domed rivets on one leg and domed screws on the other. We will be doing the same, and the domed rivets have already been made, but this will only be done once all the angles etc. have been drilled. When finally riveting and bolting the cab together, wet red oxide paint will again be used as an interfay compound.
|Lower RHS of cab in place
|Lower RHS of cab viewed from inside
The engine is now running better without the grey smoke caused by unburnt diesel. One of the original injectors was not really serviceable and suffered from severe back leakage. Fortunately a local injection specialist happened to have a reconditioned VRH injector in stock that still worked, which has now replaced the bad injector.
Someone (I believe he was working on an 88DS shunter) sent in a question about the proposed "Ruston Green" colour, but unfortunately it was accidentally deleted. The sender queried the original blog post that suggested using Lincoln Green (BS381C 276). The acknowledged expert on all things Ruston, Ray Hooley, states that Ruston Hornsby used Deep Bronze Green (BS381C 224) and we have one of his paint samples. Deep Bronze Green is very dark, and seems much darker than the green paint that has been exposed by rubbing down. Further tests on the old paintwork will be carried out, and comparisons made with a batch of shade 224 paint. The actual shade that will finally be used is subject to further study.